Sunday, 26 August 2018

Lake Maraboon to Charters Towers


Lake Maraboon is the mass of water behind the Fairburn Dam which supplies irrigation water to farms around the Emerald area.
View of Lake Maraboon from caravan


There are huge citrus orchards around the area as well as cotton and lucerne crops that all rely on the water from this dam.
After travelling for just over 6 kilometres across the lake in the Zodiac to check our red claw pots, we came up with absolutely nothing which was disappointing.  With the pots relocated we headed back across the lake for breakfast and then off to Anakie to have a look at Gemfest.
Parrots carved from rose quartz
As the name suggests, Gemfest is a festival of gems held every year at Anakie which is a little town in the gemfields about 45 kilometres west of Emerald.  Gemstones are displayed which have been found around Anakie, Sapphire and Rubyvale as well as other gemstones from other parts of the country and the world.
These parrots which have been carved from rose quartz were brought in from overseas.
Some people do well out of mining Sapphires!!
  As well as gems on show, there were also some really nice cars and other means of transport as well.
Camel transport at Anakie Gemfest
  Arriving back at the lake in the evening we saw that Bill Shorten had visited the lake during the day to promise drought relief to farmers in the area.  What surprised me was that the reporter said that the lake was down to 22% of it’s capacity and the farmers are only getting 6% of their allocation.  They also said that if they don’t get good rains in September and October, irrigation allocations will be cut all together.
Red Claw - This one was just under 12" long.  Made a nice sandwich
  Red Claw are all the talk at Lake Maraboon but we didn’t have a lot of luck.  This one kept our hopes up but sadly it was the only one.  
Fairburn Dam earth filled wall
Lake Maraboon was formed when the earth filled wall was constructed across the Nogoa River for the Fairburn Dam back in 1968.  The dam has a surface area of 37,000 acres and has a catchment area of 16,320 square kilometres.  When full it has a depth of 31.70 metres.  My GPS tells me that we travelled almost 40 kilometres backwards and forwards across the lake in our little inflatable boat trying to catch red claw, but not much luck.  Those that were getting a few were travelling between 12 and 14 kilometres diagonally across the lake, too far for us.  
I read somewhere that the anniversary stone for 45 years is sapphire.  Given that we celebrated our 45th wedding anniversary this year, I thought it fitting that we visit Sapphire in the gem fields and have a bit of a fossick for sapphires.
Rainbow Lorikeets have NO manners
The Sapphire caravan park is in a bush setting and we were visited by Rainbow Lorikeets every morning and evening looking for a feed.
Wallaby with joey in it's pouch
  Wallabies  also come around in the evening looking for a hand out as well.  The easiest way to fossick for gem stones is to head off to one of the many miners that sell buckets of “wash”.  We found the people at Armfest to be very helpful and their “wash” came from their mine 30 feet underground.  The idea is to sieve the stones known as “wash” through 2 sieves stacked one on top of the other.  The top sieve has a larger mesh than the bottom sieve and the idea is that as you wash the stones in the Willoughby.
Using the Willoughby to wash the stones
  The heavier gem stones fall to the bottom where they are easy to collect.  We went along most days and found lots of small sapphires and some star sapphires which are black, and when polished show a silver star.
The darker coloured stones in the middle are sapphires
  On our last day we were a bit more successful and found a nice stone which can be cut to make a nice piece of jewellery.  From Sapphire we kept heading north, across the Tropic of Capricorn through the towns of Capella and Clermont.  Both of these towns have huge coal mines around them and huge mines means huge equipment.
Dragline bucket at Clermont
This drag line bucket weighs 39 tonnes and can hold 50 cubic metres of soil. This bucket came out of service in 2007 and was replaced by an even bigger machine which is in use to this day.  The Clermont mine produces 12 million metric tonnes of coal each year and is expected to have another 9 years life.  Coal mined here is transported by an overland conveyor to the rail head at the nearby Rio Tinto mine where it is loaded onto rail and taken 287 kilometres overland to the coal loading terminal at Hay Point, which is about 420 kilometres south of Townsville.
The trip between Sapphire and Charters Towers was a bit too big for us to do in one day so we stopped over at a little roadhouse called Belyando Crossing for the night, then continued onto Charters Towers the next day.  Back in the mining boom days from 1871, Charters Towers was the second largest city in Queensland.  Gold was discovered here quite by accident when a young aboriginal boy named Jupiter Mosman was sent out around Towers Hill to fetch some horses and he came back with the horses and a hand full of gold.
View of Charters Towers from Tower Hill where gold was first discovered
The gold rush began and many mines opened up around town which were quickly followed by rock crushing plants called batteries.
Stone crusher at the battery
  Venus Gold Battery is Queensland’s largest remaining gold battery.  This battery was built in 1872 along the banks of Gladstone Creek as it takes 7 tonnes of water to crush 1 tonne of gold bearing ore.  Large amounts of water were also used to feed the 2 cylinder compound steam engine that drove the whole plant.  I was disappointed that the steam engine is no longer at the plant but was surprised to hear that the engine was built at the foundry in Castlemaine in Victoria.
5 head stamping box at the battery
  During it’s operation, this battery produced 15.5 tonnes of gold until it closed in 1973.  Gold price today is $52,897 per kilogram so 15,500 kilograms of gold would be worth just under $820 million.  Our tour guide was asked how many people worked in this battery and he said 13 thieves.  Apparently small amounts of gold were smuggled out by workers under the tobacco in their pipes, and the use of brill cream in their hair was very popular, as any specks of gold on their fingers would come off their hands when they rubbed their fingers through their hair.
Ghostly stories told on an impressive display
  It is rumoured that there are still many ghosts of people from the gold rush era still haunting the various properties around Charters Towers, and some of  their stories are told on a very impressive display at the battery.
WW2 Ammunition Bunker

During WW2, Charters Towers had the ammunition bunkers for the army as it was considered that the Japanese didn’t have enough fuel in their planes to fly so far inland without running out of fuel on the way home.  These bunkers are dotted all around Towers Hill and now tell the story of how bombing raids were made on enemy targets.
Texas Longhorns
Just out of Charters Towers there is a station owner who has turned his attention to breeding Texas Longhorn cattle.  This chap is an Aussie but he seems to know more about the history of these cattle than the Texans do.  The cattle here are direct descendants of the millions of Texas Longhorns that walked the great trail herds from Texas in the late 1800’s, and this is the home of the largest herd of these cattle in Australia.  The tour of the farm was magnificent with Mick telling many a story along the way, some may have been true and others were definitely not.
Authentic Texan Chuck Wagon
    We started with smoko served from their authentic Chuck Wagon, consisting of billy tea and damper, backed up with Anzac biscuits and  homemade Chocolate Texas Brownies.  As there are no unrelated Texas Longhorn bulls in Australia, Mick’s wife Lynda went to vet school to learn how to artificially inseminate their cows.
She showed us through their “Love Shack” and gave us a detailed description on how the process is done.  They produce about 30 calves a year.  The farm also has Asian Water Buffalo, American Bison, Scottish Highlanders and African Watusi.
Percheron draft horses and wagon

The highlight of the tour is the ride on their covered wagon, drawn by 2 Percheron draft horses which takes you down amongst the cattle.  The pride of their herd is a steer called JR who made it into the 2013 Guinness Book of World Records for having the longest horns measured tip to tip of all cattle in the world.
JR was the world record holder in 2013 for having the longest cattle horns in the world
His horns are still growing and now measure more than 3 metres from tip to tip.
From Charters Towers we moved on to our northern most destination of Townsville.


Thursday, 9 August 2018

Back on the road again in 2018


After three and a half years spent busily building a shed and house and putting in gardens etc., we started off again from Koondrook and traveled north through Deniliquin, Conargo, Jerilderie and stayed our first night at Narrandera.
From there we followed the Newell highway through Forbes and Parkes and stayed the second night at Dubbo.
Our third day on the road took us to Gilgandra where we left the Newell highway and joined the Castlereagh highway which goes through Gulargambone, Coonamble, Walgett and onto Lightning Ridge.
We covered all these areas on our previous trip around Australia, so we breezed through most of it with our mind set on getting to some warmer weather.
Most of this area to the north of Gilgandra is already effected by drought and all the little towns are doing it hard.  It is surprising what extent some towns will go to to keep the spirit alive during these hard times.  One of these very noticeable towns is Gulargambone which had recently run an art competition to paint various building around the town with murals.
Ghosts of Bullocks past sculpture
They have done a fantastic job which certainly brightens the town up.  Locals say that business is up and even the caravan park is booked out most nights.  The town got a grant and did the “Gulargambone Flying Ahead Sculptures Project” in 2004, which saw dozens of corrugated iron cockatoos being made and put up on poles at both entrances to the town as well as some in town.   
Another project just completed is called “Ghosts of Bullocks Past”.  This is a sculpture of 6 life size bullocks made with a steel frame and covered with recycled wire netting.  The bullocks are assembled in a team and harnessed up to a bullock wagon.  This sculpture is in a park right on the main road and just about everyone driving through stops to take some photos. 
This gives visitors the opportunity then to look at the other murals and get a coffee from the local 2828 cafe.
Lightning Ridge Caravan Park

Last time we were in Lightning Ridge, we enjoyed it so we decided to take a break from travel every day and stayed in the Opal Caravan Park for a few days, which is just on the outskirts of town.There are 2 very funny ladies who do a show every afternoon at the caravan park reciting bush poetry their way and telling some very funny stories.  A great way to finish off the day.
Glengarry Hilton Dining Room
We revisited the “3 Pubs in the Scrub” which are out at the Garwin Opal fields about 60 kilometres from Lightning Ridge.  The Glengarry Hilton does a great steak sandwich with enough chips to make us wish our grandson was with us to help us finish them off.
Glengarry Hilton old toilet block
You wouldn’t believe it but, in the middle of a drought, on the day we had to pack up to leave, it rained.  It certainly wasn’t a drought breaker but enough to get us wet while packing up.
With our minds still set on warmer weather, we kept heading north through Hebel, St.George and onto Roma where we stayed on a farm stay about 12 kilometres to the west of town.
Roma Big Rig Visitor Centre

As we drove in to town we noticed the sale yards and a sign to say that they do guided tours during the sale, which happened to be the next day.  Up early the next morning we headed back to the sale yards for the tour along with about 100 other like minded tourists.
Cattle at Roma sale Yards
  Who would have thought it would be so popular.  4,000 head of cattle were going under the hammer and we were told that this was a small sale.  Their record is 10 head short of 14,000 in one sale.  Judging by the activity today, the day they broke their record would have been pandemonium.  The guide told us that these sale yards sell cattle from as far away as the Northern Territory but mostly from within their shire which is 58,000 square miles in size.  That’s almost the size of the whole of Tasmania which is 64,000 square miles.  

Cattle are sold in the pens by cents per kilogram live weight.  The guide told us that the buyers can estimate the weight of the cattle to within about 10 kilograms.  Once sold, the cattle are herded through a series of well designed alley ways and gates to the weighbridge where they are weighed as a lot and the average weight displayed on a screen.
This one weighed 400 Kilograms and sold for $768.00
 Buyers can take a pick out of a pen and it was interesting to see this one come through to the weighbridge on it’s own. Must have been something special that this buyer wanted.  We came away thinking that we would need to know a lot more about cattle before attempting to do any buying.


Roma's biggest bottle tree
Roma is also home to the Queensland Bottle tree.  This one, which is the biggest one in town, was transplanted here as a mature tree in 1927 and is now over 100 years old.  These trees are known to live for more than 200 years.  This tree is 6 metres high, it’s canopy is 20 metres in diameter and it measures 9.51 metres around it’s trunk.

Moving on from Roma we traveled north along the Carnarvon Highway to a height of 466 metres over the Great Dividing Range, and down the other side into Injune and Rolleston and then onto the Dawson highway to Springsure, passing through some lovely rocky country along the way. 
Part of the Virgin mountain range

From there we followed the Gregory highway to Lake Maraboon which is about 25 kilometres  on the south side of Emerald.  
Hopefully our stay here will be filled with Red Claw, the Queensland version of yabbies.
View of Lake Maraboon taken from under our caravan awning